The strength of Hervé Léger's eternally smoking-hot bandage dress is instant recognizability. When so many labels blur into one another, that visual power is enviable. And while Max and Lubov Azria must occasionally grapple with the seen-one, seen-them-all perception of what they do, they seem to enjoy taking Léger's specific codes in a new direction each season, and pushing their techniques.

In their show notes, the Azrias called today's look "an inimitable suit of armor." That meant a major uptick in their usage of gold and silver hardware, not just as embellishment but as an essential design element. Dresses and gowns were striped with gold rectangles sewn in between bands of material, and covered with buckle rings and chains woven into the fabric.

Léger dresses come standard with a dose of kink, but there was a deeper S&M vibe for Fall, most overt in leather harnesses. Meanwhile, cutout knee boots with flashy metallic heels, and mini A-line tunic dresses occasionally recalled Barbarella. But credit the Azrias for keeping things controlled, never costumey, in their tight palette of mostly black, beige, and white. The sliver of news was the introduction of a few non-bandage pieces—a beautiful ponyskin coat and top and a pair of chic cropped wool trousers. You might not be able to ID them in a split second, but they're a welcome development.