On the last big day of Milan fashion week, the trends are coming into focus. The big stories here are the sixties, the boy/girl mix, and surface interest. Iceberg
's Paolo Gerani nailed two out of three—not bad, but not entirely good, either. As she has on so many other runways this season, the model Arizona Muse kicked things off. The outfit: a gray tweed pantsuit tricked out with contrast trim on the pockets and a popped collar, the underside of which was embroidered with cabochon stones. Tapered and cropped above the ankle, her pants came in the season's essential new shape. Toward the end of the show, Muse appeared again, this time in a charcoal suit layered over a white T-shirt embroidered Pearly King style in turquoise-colored baubles. That was just one of the surface treatments Gerani sampled. Also in the lineup: beaded flowers, shaggy knits, patchworked furs, Mongolian lamb, and shearlings, not to mention more of that Pearly embroidery, but in white on black. As one idea after another came out, we kept returning in our head to the elegant simplicity of that first pantsuit.