February 18, 2011 London
Jaeger design director Stuart Stockdale played some interesting games with scale and proportion this season, some to better effect than others. A theme running through the outerwear involved oversize collars—a few were just big; others flapped down like scarves. The idea was intriguing, but the execution didn't quite work, with the exception of a superlong wool coal with an oversize, shearling-lined lapel and cartoonishly wide black piping. Stockdale did better with his more subtle experiments, as when he blew up a houndstooth print on silk and made blouses, or when he achieved a nicely awkward, mannish fit on a pair of Prince of Wales-check trousers. The designer also found room for the wool-embroidered organza that's been going around this season (see Bibhu Mohapatra, Jean-Pierre Braganza); Jaeger's version played op-art tricks with the wool stripe, and looked fresh.
Elsewhere, the collection showed the influence of Phoebe Philo's first collection for Celine, as in neat white blouses and a lot of clean, tomato red separates. The pieces didn't feel directional, needless to say, but they worked, and the tomato color sent a nice bolt of brightness through Stockdale's assured, appropriately autumnal palette. An undemanding collection, this, but one with plenty of luxe-feeling, salable pieces.