Jaeger London
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, February 19, 2011
By Maya Singer
It was reported earlier this month that Jaeger, the venerable British fashion brand, may be put up for sale. Over the past few years, the company's fortunes have brightened considerably, thanks to thoughtful stewardship by owner Harold Tillman. The Fall '11 collection, shown today, probably won't do much to alter sale prospects, for either good or ill.Jaeger design director Stuart Stockdale played some interesting games with scale and proportion this season, some to better effect than others. A theme running through the outerwear involved oversize collars—a few were just big; others flapped down like scarves. The idea was intriguing, but the execution didn't quite work, with the exception of a superlong wool coal with an oversize, shearling-lined lapel and cartoonishly wide black piping. Stockdale did better with his more subtle experiments, as when he blew up a houndstooth print on silk and made blouses, or when he achieved a nicely awkward, mannish fit on a pair of Prince of Wales-check trousers. The designer also found room for the wool-embroidered organza that's been going around this season (see Bibhu Mohapatra, Jean-Pierre Braganza); Jaeger's version played op-art tricks with the wool stripe, and looked fresh.
Elsewhere, the collection showed the influence of Phoebe Philo's first collection for Celine, as in neat white blouses and a lot of clean, tomato red separates. The pieces didn't feel directional, needless to say, but they worked, and the tomato color sent a nice bolt of brightness through Stockdale's assured, appropriately autumnal palette. An undemanding collection, this, but one with plenty of luxe-feeling, salable pieces.
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Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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