Geometry, in one way or another, always informs a Jeremy Laing
collection. This season, inspired by the winter equinox's lunar eclipse, the designer took on astronomical shapes, "but nothing too spacey," Laing promised a few days before his show. "I worked from an earthbound perspective." Fittingly, there was a dressed down and appealingly rumpled quality to many of the clothes. The form-hugging, putty-colored turtlenecks were rolled just-so at the hem and sleeves, revealing a sliver of bellybutton over a pair of gorgeous wide-leg pants that, from the back, was also a skirt. Anywhere else that might have looked silly, but the pant's volume and low-slung slouch kept the garment from taking itself too seriously. And what of the moon? It appeared, quite literally, as a crater print on a long, slinky tube of a dress; it had immediate appeal. The black holes taking up space on a few dresses and tops could have been skipped, but those were the only gaps in a collection that was otherwise very well conceived and constructed.