February 14, 2011 New York
The clothes themselves alternated between structured pieces that picked up on pre-fall's tailored theme, and flowing gowns. Those tailored jackets and coats, many with mixed-fur bodies and contrast sleeves, were unquestionably luxe, but with their exaggerated shoulders and hard-edged, slightly eighties glamour, felt a bit out of step with the moment. More on-the-money was a series of flowing gowns, particularly one with a plunging neck, in embroidered rose-colored silk mousseline, glittering with beads. It had red carpet written all over it. Beading is a house first, and it was indulged to good effect; the sparkle leavened the black-heavy palette. Nor was it the only new thing for the label. The high, "tattooed" boots were, for the first time, Mendel-designed and made.