February 17, 2011 London
One suspects that Braganza's silhouettes weren't meant to seem quite so atavistic. But whatever the intended import of the motorcycle jacket-inspired looks or his peaked shoulders or studs—and the show's notes mentioned something about "markers of tribal affiliation" in a post-cyber world—there's no way to look at the clothes without thinking, been there, done that. Recently. The invention here was in the construction, as in a sculpted wool jacket with leather insets; or a long leather vest, open at the back, with graceful origami folds; or a formfitting, striped turtleneck dress, cut open at the sleeves and graphically paneled. Braganza is also a disciplined tailor, which served him really well in looks done in a gray and black digital print that read as textured: The asymmetric mini skirtsuit that opened the show was good, the coat with an oversize fur collar better, and there was a clever, wearable minidress, too, with flaps that could button closed or swing open on either side. His cocoon-ish, shawl-collared wool coat with rubber-ish insets in the sleeves is also worth a mention. It didn't particularly look like anything from the past, and it didn't look particularly like it came from the future. It just seemed fine for now.