Thimister
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, March 1, 2011
By Tim Blanks
In his long and checkered career in fashion, Josephus Thimister has been responsible for some screwily memorable moments, none more so than the collection for Balenciaga that was accompanied by an ear-bleedingly loud live soundtrack by the late and oh-so lamented English band Add N to (X). The audience—all, bar the indomitable Suzy Menkes—was driven from the venue well before show's end by a barrage of noise. Fabulous! Would that there were such a polarizing experience to make Thimister's latest presentation memorable. Instead, there was an overtly gothic-Gotham take on the masculine-feminine mash-up that has been driving fashion this season. Thimister titled his collection Snow: Mystic Circles of Fallen Angels. The case for the prosecution could almost rest at that point, except that it would deny onlookers the opportunity to debate the wisdom of the male onesie tucked into riding boots, or the half-naked gamekeeper in a gigantic muffler, or endless monastic hoods paired with baggy pleated shorts. Admittedly, these were menswear aberrations and their misguided poetry was more palatable when rendered in womenswear. So a white shirt that transmogrified into a Batman cape behind looked better on a girl than a boy. And Thimister's attention to the backside of garments obviously made a lot more sense on women than men. (It's hardly likely that a man would say, "Design me an exit-maker.")A gimlet eye applied to the designer's odd fantasia could pluck stand-alone pieces from the murk—a dramatically volumed parka-puffer hybrid, a waxed cotton jacket, a sweeping white hooded coat that was lifted from the closet of Lord Asriel in The Golden Compass. But when Nico and her harmonium began wheezing on the soundtrack, it triggered chill memories of her tune "Frozen Warnings." The frozen warning tonight? Abandon hope, all ye who enter here. And Thimister himself is such a cuddly, shambling, denim-clad bear of a man—the very essence of life-affirmation. Go figure.
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Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Piazza Sempione Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax St. John Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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