Just Cavalli
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, February 28, 2011
By Tim Blanks
A new day dawns at Just Cavalli with this collection. A freshly struck manufacturing deal sparks a renewed commitment to the label and presumably holds out the promise of much better things to come. Which is a good thing, given that today's showing was all over the map. Wide-eyed innocence and seen-it-all worldliness shared the same catwalk. Perhaps the first clue was the makeup. A dark-rimmed gothic eye was at odds with ruffled vicarage garden florals. That kind of tension is a pretty standard fashion faceoff, but here it anticipated a show where the rather dowdy primness of the vicar's wife's ruffled blouse and full, box-pleated skirt confusingly followed a gold disco pajama suit. And was that a dirndl?The box pleats reappeared in tweedy ensembles matching skirts to cropped tops that bared midriff. Boxy tweed and bare flesh are not perhaps the most compatible couple. The lace version made more sense. What worked best were the most straight-ahead pieces, like the goat fur-trimmed coats. At least they had a glamour that echoed the parent collection. Last Spring, Just Cavalli hit a note of upbeat fun that felt just right for the label. It would be too bad if that was the dusk of the old regime, because this dawn was dull by comparison.
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Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Piazza Sempione Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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