February 18, 2011 London
Most of that was down to the way Anderson dealt with duality. He played it straightforward—or straight-backward. So what looked from the front like a pleated paisley skirt over pants turned out to be an apron from behind. A slimline variant on a man's overcoat was backed with a big black frill. The boyish knitwear was so formfitting it was practically sheer, which emphasized that it was actually a girl wearing it. Twisted and clever, if you gave it some thought. As twisted, in fact, as the little clerical collar that topped the sweaters. It was actually white latex.
The navy parka with the sequined top and the black biker with the beaded sweater were more obvious tips of Anderson's cap to boy/girl dressing. Dresses in black or white angora looked like elongated punk sweaters. More elegant, of course, but maybe there was something ultimately punk about the mood of the collection. Like Granny Anderson in her don't-give-a-f*** outfit, or the model in a paisley playsuit here. Johnnie Fingers from the Boomtown Rats used to wear his pajamas onstage. J.W. was offering his paisley version as street wear, latex-trimmed and paired with the mutant hiking boots he considers his signature item. For Fall, they'll be wearing a masculine mustache of white fur. Death to mundane reality!