Showgoers at Louise Gray, particularly those taking in her Pop-arty carnival of color, embellishment, and texture for the first time, might be surprised at the designer's post-show assessment. "I was trying to think more of a wardrobe of what a woman wants," Gray said backstage, her hair newly dyed an icy pink. "Like the jumpers and the different coats that you can wear to various occasions. I think it really looks like a wardrobe."

True enough, those fab color-blocked and deconstructed Aran pullovers and cardigans are the very first things you'd extract from the ensembles of Koons-esque balloon hats (a second collaboration with Nasir Mazhar), padded harness bustiers, and tribal-by-way-of-Glasgow fringed skirts. The second: the cozy-cool tartan mohair bombers, for day, and perhaps car coats covered with fat gold-foil dots (a spot of overlap with Marc Jacobs earlier this week), for evening.

Both are rooted in Gray's Scottish heritage, but both are done her way. (Also, check out Nicholas Kirkwood's high-heeled harlequin take for Pollini on the wellie.) Gray's textile-design training shone through here. On the mohair, she layered pixelated and blown-up plaid patterns, and when she used classic tartan wools, she overprinted them with bright checkers. Elsewhere, she used smocking to add a third dimension.

The collection was named Up Your Look, a double entendre that either connotes an upgrade or suggests that Gray is going to do what she does, and if you don't like it, you know where you can put it. It's just that rebel spirit that makes her work so much fun to see.