Limi Feu
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, March 2, 2011
By Tim Blanks
The symbiosis between mens- and womenswear is the oldest fashion story ever told, but it's been coming on sledgehammer-strong for Fall. Limi Feu's show was proof that the Japanese have an instinctive head start on the trend. The designer literally expanded on classic elements of men's dressing: stretching a white shirt to the floor; elongating a ribbed gray cardigan to mid-calf; sweeping the floor with a kilt. Limi turned the back of a cadet jacket into an exercise in draping. This neat little reversal happened a few times. A topcoat turned into a cape, a peacoat became a massively hooded parka. Maybe it was the gender integration that inspired an oversize double-breasted jacket with sleeves cut from a blurry floral print. More twisted: a floral nightshirt under a gray flannel biker jacket whose sleeves had been slashed open to reveal the same flowers inside.Androgyny—which sounds a little crisper than "non-gender-specificity"—is an ongoing game in Japanese fashion, so it was diverting to focus on the less ambiguous (through Western eyes, at least) aspects of Limi's collection. The dresses, for instance. A polka-dot dress in various permutations had a dust bowl chic-ness. The finale pieces were made unexpectedly revealing by fabric that was slashed open at the side. The character in these clothes was hard to define. That much was audible in a soundtrack that veered from bagpipes to the Stones' "Street Fighting Man." Put them together and they imply Celtic toughness. As trite as the notion of the urban warrior may now be, Limi Feu could have been dressing a new breed.
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Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Piazza Sempione Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax St. John Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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