Loewe
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, March 5, 2011
By Tim Blanks
"A balance of the classical beauty that Loewe is known for, with some of my edge." That was Stuart Vevers' definition of his new collection for the Spanish brand that he has been steering since mid-2007. His own idea of edge was mixing fur with rawer materials like sheepskin, but there was also a strict sexiness to his designs that felt more London Now than Madrid Whenever. The very first outfit, for instance, matched a stock-tie blouse to a buttoned-up pencil skirt. Conservative, much? They were, however, both in a biscuit leather, and the outfit practically screamed "naughty secretary!" Vevers has always had a gift for that kind of carry-on fashion, but life in Madrid has clearly smoothed away the tacky edges, because his collection was a seamless, stylish update of the Loewe lifestyle. He clearly knew what he was doing when he followed proper leather coat-dresses in red, blue, and gold with an olive-toned sheath dress that buttoned all the way up the back. The label's signature brown leather looked austerely sensual in a box-pleated skirt paired with a fur-collared jacket. New this season was an emphasis on bonded skins, maîtresse-severe in a wasp-waisted black dress.Those skins were the main event, but Vevers added silk separates inspired by stained glass windows. Sacred and profane? What could be more Spanish than that?
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Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Piazza Sempione Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax St. John Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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