"A balance of the classical beauty that Loewe is known for, with some of my edge." That was Stuart Vevers' definition of his new collection for the Spanish brand that he has been steering since mid-2007. His own idea of edge was mixing fur with rawer materials like sheepskin, but there was also a strict sexiness to his designs that felt more London Now than Madrid Whenever. The very first outfit, for instance, matched a stock-tie blouse to a buttoned-up pencil skirt. Conservative, much? They were, however, both in a biscuit leather, and the outfit practically screamed "naughty secretary!" Vevers has always had a gift for that kind of carry-on fashion, but life in Madrid has clearly smoothed away the tacky edges, because his collection was a seamless, stylish update of the Loewe lifestyle. He clearly knew what he was doing when he followed proper leather coat-dresses in red, blue, and gold with an olive-toned sheath dress that buttoned all the way up the back. The label's signature brown leather looked austerely sensual in a box-pleated skirt paired with a fur-collared jacket. New this season was an emphasis on bonded skins, maîtresse-severe in a wasp-waisted black dress.

Those skins were the main event, but Vevers added silk separates inspired by stained glass windows. Sacred and profane? What could be more Spanish than that?