L'Wren Scott
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 17, 2011
By Meenal Mistry
L'Wren Scott named her Fall collection A Tropical Conversation after a favorite Gauguin painting, seen a few months ago in her favorite city of London. Perhaps it seems strange to talk tropical for Fall, especially in a season where we've already seen some serious outerwear, but Scott marches to the beat of her own drummer. (Or should that be front man? As usual, her beau Mick Jagger was on hand to lend support at today's presentation in a 24th Street art gallery.)"Everyone talks about Fall/Winter, but all I can think is how I want to see color and be happy," Scott said before the showing. That should make any dedicated fan—whether it's Sarah Jessica Parker, Nicole Kidman, or Michelle Obama—happy, too, as the designer has a pretty terrific color sense. On her modern Chelsea girls—all teased, side-combed hair and kohled eyes—there were jeweled green, royal blue, and a whole spectrum of purples. But the icing on Scott's color cake is always a sophisticated, unexpected combination, like a grape cardigan over an emerald satin blouse, all tucked into a lemon yellow pencil skirt.
Business is growing steadily. Witness the debut of a capsule collection of handbags here today, a sure sign that Scott has an eye on expansion. And as such, the scope of her designs continues to widen. Last season, she explored a looser silhouette to uneven effect, but today she struck a great balance with fits that don't look like they require pushing away the potpie she likes to serve the guests at her presentations. There were dresses with a slight tulip flare to their skirts, and a wider trouser was fluid and loose but maintained some of that signature lean, sharp edge. Check out the ice blue pair worn with a terrific little ombré velvet jacket. The counterpoint to that: a new, much shorter length than the designer's ever done.
By the end, the models were back in black. But, particularly in the looks embroidered with a chic feather motif, that was still a very happy place.
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Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Piazza Sempione Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax St. John Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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