Luca Luca
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 10, 2011
By Alison Baenen
A native Californian, Raul Melgoza shook out memories of childhood trips to Yosemite to come up with this season's wardrobe for his tony clientele. "I thought about where I go to relax," the designer said backstage before his show. "And I thought about a woman traveling through the woods. What would she wear?" Well, in Luca Luca's woods, heels are perfectly practical, and leather is a must. A nod to functionality came through in a pair of streamlined pants, a cross between jodhpurs and cigarettes, worn with a leather utility belt—"like a detachable cummerbund," Melgoza explained. Generally, the woodsy references were confined to print and embellishment. A pencil skirt was treated to look like bark, and the fine strands of jet black beading on the bodice of a closing gown resembled a strand of seeds, or the fine veins that run through leaves.There may not have been many surprises—as usual, Melgoza's eye for architectural seaming and detailing was in evidence—but this season the designer made a point of using color, employing hues that, while saturated, were never too pop. Those are the types of tones Luca Luca's customers will likely gravitate toward as they follow the call to incorporate more color into their closets. When that time comes, an orange fox chubby worn over a pair of slim wool pants and a cashmere sweater, both in fuchsia and topped with a matching watch cap, would be a very bold place to start.
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Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Piazza Sempione Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax St. John Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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