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Marc by Marc Jacobs

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NEW YORK, February 15, 2011
By Tim Blanks
After Marc Jacobs' splendid, typically twisted production last night, Stephen Jones, the man who made the hats, and Jacobs were laughing about how Roz Russell, Joan Crawford, and all the mega-broads who starred in George Cukor's The Women on the cusp of the forties were perennial fashion catnip. Then today came Jacobs' show for his second collection, and the huge fox-collared trench and the A-line blanket coat both had the brassy swing that Barbara Stanwyck, another great broad to the bone, would have done full justice to on-screen during Hollywood's golden age of black and white. Not that Jacobs was turning his girls into molls, but MxM had caught last night's shapely, sophisto, grown-up edge. OK, the boys were wearing high-tops, but in their herringbone suits (with the generously cuffed, wide-cut pants), trenchcoats, button-down shirts, and ties, they could have been junior league Bogies, walking L.A.'s mean streets with La Stanwyck.

The forties feeling was amplified by chevron-patterned velvets, a corduroy suit with a belted jacket, a sweater dress, and rah-rah satin shorts with a matching top. Plus the ankle socks with heels. A generous, alpaca man's coat could have been lifted from Robert Mitchum's closet.

But this is Marc Jacobs we're talking about, so the retro filter wasn't quite as bald as a forties time-trip. It was more the seventies-gone-forties thing that is so enduringly, appealingly glamorous for Kids Today. A metallic leather jacket and culottes, a jade green silk dress, a printed silk jumpsuit: Yep, it was a regular disco inferno, but pulled off with irrepressible verve. You can imagine vintage hounds a hundred years hence falling on these clothes like wolves on a lamb.

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