At first blush, Mandy Coon's Fall collection would seem to have been designed by Bizarro Mandy Coon, recently arrived from the planet Discipline. Looking at the severe silhouettes—in particular, the collection's high-waisted black wool trousers, tailored wrap jackets, and stiff, full skirts—you had to wonder what happened to the Coon of yore, the one with the crazy rave prints, tendril hems, and bags shaped like rabbits. But if that designer was hard to see in this impressive if stern outing, she wasn't impossible to find. Coon has always had a strong sense of line, which she emphasized this time out, but she also remains a lively surrealist. To wit, her tuxedo-tailed pencil dress, which was festooned with a wildly oversized leather bow, and the giant backpack, made of leather stamped to look like python.

Coon also made Dada-esque use of faux fur: Though a wool wrap jacket lined with that material and sporting a large fur collar was wearably glamorous, a coat-dress in leather and fur struck a more comic note. (It seemed silly to imagine the garment as a dress, until you put it in the context of the current blustery winter, in which light a faux-fur dress seemed like a good solution to a tiresome problem; i.e., being cold.) Other looks were more conventionally "fun"—short, tailored dresses with leather-tipped dirndl skirts; a baggy, hooded leather bomber lined (again) in faux fur—but the focus was squarely on soigné, grown-up clothes. Though some of the mishmash and casual aplomb of Coon's previous outings was missed here, the designer proved her range, taking confident command of a formal tone.