February 20, 2011 London
Fast's new knits are trickier to assess. The first few looks were promising—a wrap coat with massive shoulders that looked a bit like shrubbery; a high-waisted miniskirt, trademark-tight, in a dense wool rib, with a matching crop top featuring more of that shrubbery. Later in the show, Fast sent out a variety of typically skin-baring dresses with a cool accordion pleat built into the knit, and he used the same technique in a big, drapey cardigan. There was a great stretched wool that looked like Mongolian fur, too, used in a dramatic coat. It was nice to see Fast finding ways to accommodate his innovative knitting to covered-up looks, as well as racy ones.
But there was a certain point in this show—maybe around the time Fast sent out a super-mini knit dress, barely there in form as well as color, with a block of that shrubbery knit ringing the hemline—where he started to lose the audience. People can argue until the cows come home about whether or not Fast's super-sexed-up aesthetic is vulgar, but there were a few too many looks here that were just plain hard to fathom.