Missoni
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MILAN, February 27, 2011
By Tim Blanks
If last season's tribal excursion felt like a provocative schism in the Missoni saga, this new collection scattered the sweet balm of fairy dust. Its candy-colored pastel prettiness seemed to be the stuff of Cinderella's dreams. "It's a fairy tale," said Margherita Missoni, granddaughter of the house's founders, as she walked through the racks of clothes before the show. But alternately, you could flip the cloud-cuckoo-land binoculars and look through a glass darkly, at which point a whole other, rather more interesting story emerged.It's always been Margherita who appeared to be designated heiress apparent of the family style legacy. She's helped her mother Angela, the line's designer, nudge it to a more contemporary place. This season, however, Angela was bigging up her younger daughter Teresa, claiming it was her dress sense that influenced the proportions of the collection. And, armed with that update, it was indeed easy to see Teresa's nonchalance in the sweeping skirts, the oversize tops, the man's jacket thrown casually over the whole lot.
Every fairy tale has a kernel of not-quite-rightness, and that was evident here in the menswear elements: the raw-seamed redingotes, the broken plaids, the pleated trousers as big as Oxford bags, and even the tweedy bouclé shorts suit. They provided a necessary ballast for the pink, pistachio, lilac, and baby blue. Even without that, though, there was a sense of the skewed. It was partly the size of the clothes. "As Japanese as Missoni can go," said Margherita. It was also the sun-bleached quality: The Ladies of the Canyon atmosphere was on a similar wavelength to Rodarte's Great Plains collection this season.
Artist Tiana Langdon contributed naïve drawings that were either printed or embroidered on long dresses. Adding to the languid, stoned vibe was the Frederic Sanchez soundtrack, featuring "Sweet Jane" by the Cowboy Junkies. That song was used in Natural Born Killers, and its star Juliette Lewis was a reference for Lucia Pieroni's makeup.
OK, so there was a circle squared. But there was more: full-length python coats (anyone who has ever chased Ossie Clark's snakeskin through vintage shops will be in heaven) matched to python bike boots; a raschel knit lace jacket and skirt dissolving into clouds of feathers; pastel fur sewn onto organza to create a fluffy little skirt…. There was something compulsively irresistible in a story that was built on such decadent ephemera.
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Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Piazza Sempione Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax St. John Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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