Maison Martin Margiela
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, March 4, 2011
By Nicole Phelps
Last season, Maison Martin Margiela juxtaposed the masculine and the feminine to confounding results—the girls looked like sandwich boards had been stuffed down their suits and evening gowns. The Fall collection, which was a more satisfying experience, was all about a dress, but if that sounds like a simpler proposition, you've come to the wrong place. The MMM dresses seemed to be peeling off their models like old wallpaper. A red one early on was unzipped up the side to reveal a patent skirt a shade darker. The green one that followed was unsnapped at the waist, offering a glimpse of a white leather skirt with a stamped hem. The theme continued as the show progressed. For evening they showed a lace-edged negligée printed trompe l'oeil-style on uncut panels of black silk, or a rumpled silk dress seemingly tossed over one shoulder of a marled gray sweatshirt and rabbit fur skirt (it must've been some party).All those layers meant the fit was sometimes quite bulky. It made you wish they'd unzip the top layer completely and get at what was underneath, and maybe even peel off the drippy pantyhose they wore over their boots and shoes while they were at it. The underlying message of these unraveling women who walked in a circle at a glacial pace? There wasn't much time to ponder it before the fashion pack jumped out of its seats for the next show. Maybe the Margiela team was admonishing us all to slow down or deal with the repercussions. Then again, sometimes a dress is just a dress, even if it is coming apart at the seams.
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Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Piazza Sempione Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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