Coco Rocha's stuffed chicken hat had the Twitterverse aflutter this morning, but the big news at Moschino, especially in view of last season's more-is-the-most show, was how relatively restrained the clothes on the runway looked. Rossella Jardini built her Fall collection on a straightforward idea: the masculine/feminine twist. That meant there were tailcoats and tuxedos and riding jackets, all faultlessly tailored, but with an unexpected detail or two. Precious touches—gold teddy bears and black velvet bows decorating a collar, revers in a rose print, a cummerbund in hot pink—tweaked standard notions of the male uniform. The navy man's standard-issue khaki pants, for example, were reimagined as billowy gold lamé palazzo pants. Accessories—captain's hats and the house's signature gold hoop earrings—extended the metaphor.

Some outfits landed more on the feminine side of the equation. Anything in Lurex bouclé, say, or a sharp-looking pantsuit in a red jacquard. And here and there, Jardini dropped the concept completely, sending out a baby pink charmeuse siren gown or a sleeveless sheath draped from that silk rose print. All in all, this was a less wild and zany show experience, but it served to remind you that Moschino is a great resource for a suit.