When Lutz & Patmos shuttered last year, it was a downbeat moment for the New York fashion world. The team behind the cult line of quality, inventive knits (and noteworthy collaborations) went their separate ways, and now Marcia Patmos is setting up shop solo with M.Patmos. Here's the good news: It's more of the same, which should be taken as a positive thing. After winning the 2011 Ecco Domani prize, the designer had enough cash to put together a presentation that had a seventies Moroccan atmosphere, with stacks of carpets, tented ceilings, and an acoustic guitar player.

The collection came in mostly neutral tones, and there was an inevitable emphasis on sweater dressing. Patmos used a state-of-the-art Japanese machine to create a pullover with just one thread, so there are no seams, no waste. Another top in baby alpaca was handmade by a Bolivian women's arts collective. While there were leggings and long skirts, the highlights here were the cozy layers.