Mulberry
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, February 20, 2011
By Meenal Mistry
After a few low-key seasons in New York, Mulberry summoned up an awful lot of expensive star power and staging for its return to London. The theme here appropriately tapped deep into the well of Englishness, a darling but darkly humored brand of it in the vein of Roald Dahl's Fantastic Mr. Fox.After the show, creative director Emma Hill described a familiar-sounding muse: "She's very English. She's got a dilapidated, stately home. She's got her long party dress on and she throws on a duffel coat." And hopefully she remembers to take her handbag. After all, this may walk and quack like other runway shows, but the real stars (along with Kirsten Dunst, Clémence Poésy, Gemma Arterton, and Nicholas Hoult, all squeezed into the tight space at Claridge's) are those new Alexas, now oversized with diamond quilting and fox-head hardware, and Bayswaters, in ponyskin and covered with tiny fox-head rivets. Also new: the revival of the beloved but discontinued Neely called Polly Push Lock, and a natty little cross-body chain bag called the Carter.
As for the clothes, the fresh-scrubbed, boxy sixties and maxi-skirted seventies looks focused heavily on outerwear, a piece of clothing that hews most closely to accessories when it comes to buying habits. Among the winners: the toggled shearling that opened the show, a long buttery-looking bomber, and a silvery gray rabbit-fur car coat.
Hill's take on Mulberry's ready-to-wear business is simply to make very appealing clothes. "It's not necessarily making a statement," she said. Fair enough, but given that, a more tightly edited selection than the 37 looks shown today might have had a bit more impact.
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Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Piazza Sempione Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax St. John Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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