Matthew Williamson
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, February 20, 2011
By Meenal Mistry
Matthew Williamson cited his inspiration as Francisco Infante-Arana, the Russian artist who photographs mirrored sculptures in various landscapes, creating a fun-house version of the natural world. That gave you all those oddly hued sharp geometric prints played off beaded and ombré Mongolian lamb chubbies. And it was echoed in that patchworked blanket wool, toughened up with black leather and a goth Fair Isle sweater dress that came uncomfortably close to last Fall's Givenchy.It always seems like Williamson is looking for ways to wrap his soft bohemian reputation in a tougher and artier skin. While no one wants to see an Ibizan rehash, he often seems to stumble over this goal. (See those dresses sprouting curves of marabou from shoulder to hip.) But there was a detectable change for the better here, a streamlining, a lightness. Consider the lovely simplicity in that lipstick red shift on Ajak Deng with a beaded collar, and even in the ensemble of a red sliced-lapel jacket worn over a nude sheer blouse and sequin and feather skirt.
At a preview, the designer mentioned he wasn't using a stylist for his Fall collection, the first time in 14 years. "I couldn't be happier," he said. Whether that's the reason is anyone's guess. At any rate, a stylist might have found chicer shoes.
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Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Piazza Sempione Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax St. John Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen









































