Style.com

Matthew Williamson

post a comment
LONDON, February 20, 2011
By Meenal Mistry
Matthew Williamson cited his inspiration as Francisco Infante-Arana, the Russian artist who photographs mirrored sculptures in various landscapes, creating a fun-house version of the natural world. That gave you all those oddly hued sharp geometric prints played off beaded and ombré Mongolian lamb chubbies. And it was echoed in that patchworked blanket wool, toughened up with black leather and a goth Fair Isle sweater dress that came uncomfortably close to last Fall's Givenchy.

It always seems like Williamson is looking for ways to wrap his soft bohemian reputation in a tougher and artier skin. While no one wants to see an Ibizan rehash, he often seems to stumble over this goal. (See those dresses sprouting curves of marabou from shoulder to hip.) But there was a detectable change for the better here, a streamlining, a lightness. Consider the lovely simplicity in that lipstick red shift on Ajak Deng with a beaded collar, and even in the ensemble of a red sliced-lapel jacket worn over a nude sheer blouse and sequin and feather skirt.

At a preview, the designer mentioned he wasn't using a stylist for his Fall collection, the first time in 14 years. "I couldn't be happier," he said. Whether that's the reason is anyone's guess. At any rate, a stylist might have found chicer shoes.

COMMENTS

(0) ADD YOURS
welcome ! logout
you must be logged in to leave a comment | join now

Comments are moderated and generally will be posted if they are on-topic and not abusive.

Follow us on Twitter

Loading...

Style File Blog

may 26, 2012

Shopping alert

On Our Radar: Chance

11:05 AM
When I was a kid, my mom used to dress me in stripes, and ever since then, I have racked up a...

Outside sources

Lara Stone’s Star Trek, And More Of Today’s Top Stories

10:05 AM

more from the style file blog ›
Subscribe to Style.com today!