February 19, 2011 London
It always seems like Williamson is looking for ways to wrap his soft bohemian reputation in a tougher and artier skin. While no one wants to see an Ibizan rehash, he often seems to stumble over this goal. (See those dresses sprouting curves of marabou from shoulder to hip.) But there was a detectable change for the better here, a streamlining, a lightness. Consider the lovely simplicity in that lipstick red shift on Ajak Deng with a beaded collar, and even in the ensemble of a red sliced-lapel jacket worn over a nude sheer blouse and sequin and feather skirt.
At a preview, the designer mentioned he wasn't using a stylist for his Fall collection, the first time in 14 years. "I couldn't be happier," he said. Whether that's the reason is anyone's guess. At any rate, a stylist might have found chicer shoes.