Nicole Miller
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 11, 2011
By Meenal Mistry
Pre-collections don't necessarily function as a crystal-ball vision of what you'll see on a designer's main season runway. But for today's show, Nicole Miller essentially revealed the full-length feature to her pre-fall prequel for which she took her cues from the futuristic sci-fi flick Gattaca and the clinically precise chic of Uma Thurman.Miller further developed her story with prismatic digital prints that put soft shards of color on body-hugging dresses, silk tops, and a cocoon coat. Occasionally they were glammed up with sequins. The latter is Miller's own spin on a look that undeniably recalls some goth-leaning Parisians. That jagged geometry was echoed neatly on asymmetrical bustier necklines. The darkly romantic silhouette mainly hewed to chic, attenuated layers with lean flared pants (some inset with leather), or vests that curved in front to a long point belted over wide trousers.
A sci-fi depiction of days ahead is rarely rosy, but here that gloom was cushioned by the extreme protective luxury of beautiful coats and vests constructed from astrakhan; soft, thick black leather; and neoprene. A dramatic charcoal wool cape with an asymmetrical flare, for one, seemed like it could usher a heroine successfully through any kind of dystopia. At any rate, though it was swimming upstream of fashion's current joyful mood, this solid collection counts as a happy ending.
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Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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