February 14, 2011 New York
Sticking to one dress silhouette as he did allowed Rodriguez to zero in on fabric, cut, and color. Backstage he said he was looking at different kinds of art, but collage in particular, which made sense when you saw the color-blocking and the way he combined not just hues (midnight, black, lavender, and cobalt, say) but also textures (silk and wool, or chiffon and bands of sequins). A series of red, pink, white, and black printed silk fil coupé shifts, meanwhile, had a softer, more painterly hand.
As for the tailoring, it was grown-up where the dresses were fresh. A tonal charcoal plaid blazer, fastened with hooks and eyes, and its matching pants were as close as Rodriguez got to a straight-up suit. Like others have this season, he showed two-tone trousers. Jackets and coats were bisected vertically and horizontally with stripes of contrasting colors. It was super-graphic.
Following on last season's stroll through his nineties hits, this was Rodriguez waxing anti-nostalgic. We're glad we tuned in.