Piazza Sempione
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, February 28, 2011
By Nicole Phelps
Milan's centuries-old La Casa dei Demoni, a Renaissance-era palazzo-turned-contemporary private club, provided a template of sorts for Piazza Sempione's Fall collection. The house's fading wallpaper was reflected in the print of a sleeveless dress; the peeling paint had echoes in the frayed-fabric selvage ruffle extending from shoulder to hem on a camel shift; and one of its rambling, run-down rooms inspired the abandoned-mansion watercolor print of a third short frock. Designers Ioanna Soleas and Daniele Calcaterra were smart not to take the deconstruction theme too far, though. Doing so might have alienated the department store customer who relies on this brand for the kind of clothes that take her to work and out afterward; as Soleas put it, "never too dressed up, never too dressed down." There were extremes here: The collection went from the almost edgy (black leather leggings and a V-neck leather and wool top) to all the way uptown (a trim two-tone coat in ivory and brick red). The best piece, a black and white fil coupé strapless dress worn over a second-skin knit, landed somewhere in the middle, but wearing it you'd be guaranteed to stand out.
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Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Piazza Sempione Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax St. John Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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