Peter Jensen
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, March 1, 2011
By Tim Blanks
After an intense month of fashion served up every which way, creative solutions to the challenge of how best to present your wares tend to stand out. There's the million-dollar spectacle à la Chanel, of course. There's the bright-idea-on-a-budget ingenuity of someone like Patrik Ervell. And there's always film, which has been used to increasingly great effect. But Peter Jensen took things one step further (or is it back?) for Fall 2011. His lookbook is a set of film stills from an imagined production, shot by photographer Autumn de Wilde in—where else?—Hollywood.Jensen's muses are some of fashion's most left field. For Spring, Shelley Duvall was the inspirator. For Fall, it was Anna Karina, the sloe-eyed beauty who starred in Jean-Luc Godard's most famous films in the early sixties (she was his wife at the time). Karina is Danish, like Jensen, but she got her "stage" name from Coco Chanel when she was modeling in the late fifties. And maybe her style (she was a poster girl for the French New Wave) helped trim some of the usual whimsy from Jensen's new collection. There was definitely a less decorative, more functional—maybe even more commercial—edge to the clothes, though the designer insisted that was also the influence of the American sportswear he'd been looking at. It's also his 10th anniversary, so he's been reflecting on his own archives, focusing and refining his signature style. For instance, Jensen resuscitated a cape from a shoot he did with Tim Walker for British Vogue a few years back.
Jensen followers can rest easy, though. There was still plenty of whimsy, from tip (bouclé pompom hats) to toe (colored Chelsea boots). An Umbrellas of Cherbour print—referencing the classic French movie famous for its color and its leading lady, Catherine Deneuve—was cut into a cotton shirtdress. Another print featured Google maps of the Hollywood Hills. Karina's early-sixties style was reflected in details like sailor collars, or pieces like the bonneted raincoat and the simple shift shapes with beat-girl tights. Jensen's own fractured fairy-tale signature was more obvious in the quilted corduroy suit with its trim of fake fur, or in the Harris tweed cape and bonnet paired with Bermuda shorts. But then he delivered a black silk sheath veiled in a navy dévoré shroud. The grown-up glamour of that notion suggested a route to Jensen's next decade.
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Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Piazza Sempione Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax St. John Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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