Pedro Lourenço
post a comment ›
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, March 4, 2011
By Meenal Mistry
Now 20, Pedro Lourenço burst brightly onto the fashion landscape just a year ago with his strict, meticulously crafted leather dresses. They were perfect for eliciting genuine oohs and aahs, but were perhaps not the thing that everyone's going to run out to buy. Today, Lourenço's geometric and vaguely futuristic vision had a decidedly softer aspect, one that's surely more customer-friendly. (Even though last season no less than 10 Corso Como in Milan, Louis Boston, Wynn Las Vegas, and Joseph London picked up the collection.) Not that Lourenço intended to make things easier. "It just happened to become more wearable," he shrugged backstage before the show.Still, something like a sharply cut, sparkling tweed coat inset with an illusory panel of sheer organza seemed to make the most of Lourenço's ideas and his pretty masterful technique while also having serious real-world appeal. Ditto those coolly minimal tops with strips of fox pieced into leather and organza—worn with skinny wool stirrup pants—which looked like an idea Helmut Lang might have come up with.
This was in fact the first time Lourenço has worked with fur. Still, his take on that hybrid fur and wool coat you've been seeing everywhere for the past month had its own elegant point of view. Lourenço's inspiration was the scene in Blonde Venus where Marlene Dietrich strips off her gorilla costume, but there was nothing beastly about these, particularly that standout in white.
For someone so young to look to the future makes a certain amount of sense, though Lourenço's imaginings owe a debt to sixties-era forward thinkers like Courrèges. But this kid's also got his own piece to say, and this was a promising development.
/
/
/
COMMENTS
(0) ADD YOURSwelcome !
logout
you must be logged in to leave a comment sign in | join now
see all designers ›
Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
#
|
A
|
B
|
C
|
D
|
E
|
F
|
G
|
H
|
I
|
J
|
K
|
L
|
M
|
N
|
O
|
P
|
R
|
S
|
T
|
U
|
V
|
W
|
Y
|
Z
|
-
#
3.1 Phillip Lim -
A
-
B
-
C
-
D
-
E
Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
F
Farah Angsana Fashion East Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
G
Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
H
Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
I
Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
J
-
K
Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
L
L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
M
-
N
Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
O
Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
P
Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Piazza Sempione Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
R
-
S
Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax St. John Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
T
-
U
Undercover United Bamboo -
V
Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
W
Wayne Wes Gordon Willow -
Y
Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
Z
Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
ERROR:
