Now 20, Pedro Lourenço burst brightly onto the fashion landscape just a year ago with his strict, meticulously crafted leather dresses. They were perfect for eliciting genuine oohs and aahs, but were perhaps not the thing that everyone's going to run out to buy. Today, Lourenço's geometric and vaguely futuristic vision had a decidedly softer aspect, one that's surely more customer-friendly. (Even though last season no less than 10 Corso Como in Milan, Louis Boston, Wynn Las Vegas, and Joseph London picked up the collection.) Not that Lourenço intended to make things easier. "It just happened to become more wearable," he shrugged backstage before the show.

Still, something like a sharply cut, sparkling tweed coat inset with an illusory panel of sheer organza seemed to make the most of Lourenço's ideas and his pretty masterful technique while also having serious real-world appeal. Ditto those coolly minimal tops with strips of fox pieced into leather and organza—worn with skinny wool stirrup pants—which looked like an idea Helmut Lang might have come up with.

This was in fact the first time Lourenço has worked with fur. Still, his take on that hybrid fur and wool coat you've been seeing everywhere for the past month had its own elegant point of view. Lourenço's inspiration was the scene in Blonde Venus where Marlene Dietrich strips off her gorilla costume, but there was nothing beastly about these, particularly that standout in white.

For someone so young to look to the future makes a certain amount of sense, though Lourenço's imaginings owe a debt to sixties-era forward thinkers like Courrèges. But this kid's also got his own piece to say, and this was a promising development.