Ports 1961
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 16, 2011
By Alison Baenen
Fiona Cibani launched menswear in Milan last month, and she found herself taken with the fabrics. "Cashmere, baby camel, Egyptian cotton," she rattled off backstage after her quiet uptown show (well, it was quiet until Anna Dello Russo arrived, wearing fruit). Cibani, lusting after the men's garments, gave her womenswear a stricter, more structured feel than usual and worked to lighten up the fabrics she'd fallen for. Slim pants with a flare at the ankle and tailored pencil skirts came in bouclé wool or metallic herringbone. A flat-front jumpsuit in cashmere, high to the neck, where the lapels of a traditional boys' button-down peeked out, looked enticing and fully feminine. Almost everything was belted at the waist or bodice with metal and patent belts; they pulled in the silhouette nicely, even if they did look a bit uncomfortable. With no dresses or eveningwear to speak of, a trio of pieces—a tee, skirt, and coat—hand-appliquéd with laser-cut leather stood in for the fancy stuff. The dresses and cocktail frocks weren't missed. Arianna Huffington, a few seats away from Dello Russo, should find plenty of trim suits and subtly special separates perfect for her day job.
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Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Piazza Sempione Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax St. John Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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