Preen
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 13, 2011
By Meenal Mistry
Even if you're a fan of avant-garde fashion, the term "deconstruction" carries with it the weighty connotation of clothing that's hard to wear and perhaps not terribly feminine or sexy. But for the past couple of seasons, Preen's Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi have been turning that notion on its head. Today's stellar show followed suit, pushing their sharp fusions of constructed menswear tailoring with fluid womenswear elements—often all in a one-piece look—into even more exquisitely wrought territory.Their multicolored geometric-floral motif, inspired by the Northern California Arts and Crafts movement, was hand-embroidered, block-printed onto silk, and knit into intarsia sweaters. They further upped the stakes with patches of crystal and metal beading, all done by hand in India, which turned head-to-toe navy workwear into under-the-radar elegant evening. (They also chunked that flash onto the chin-scraping high collars worn under lean suits, an homage, Thornton said, to Diana Vreeland.)
You have to marvel at the fact that these slightly confounding, Frankenstein dresses (disparate tops and bottoms, fronts and backs, miniskirts atop midi skirts) read in such an undeniably sophisticated way. High fashion so often has a disconnect between who can really pull off wearing chic, interesting clothing (girls in their twenties) and who can actually afford it (women in their thirties and upward). But with their collection, Thornton and Bregazzi increasingly bridge that gap, and that's no mean feat.
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Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Piazza Sempione Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax St. John Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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