RAD by Rad Hourani
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 15, 2011
By Matthew Schneier
Rad Hourani is a futurist. The world he designs for—and inhabits; not just the president, but a client, too, as they say—is a utopian one where gender difference is minimized and a rigorously small number of building blocks make up even the most complicated looks. He's an advocate of unisex dressing, and sends his men and women out in matching gear (this season, right down to identical gray tights and a banded, chunky high heel, made in collaboration with Aldo). The 26 looks Hourani showed all boil down to a manageable six discrete pieces, including two jackets, a pocketed chemise, and a paneled pant. Wear them backward, wear them forward, wear them on top of one another, and voilà: Choose your own adventure."Choose your own adventure"—that can sound a bit like a sci-fi action movie, and there are seasons when Hourani seems to have pulled his looks from one, too. That aesthetic has its fans, but it can come off a little machine-made. You lose the cloth-ness of the clothes, somehow. This Fall however, Hourani worked with fabrics he calls "classical": wool flannel, boiled wool, standard wool, jersey, crepe. Even the PVC he returns to time and again was here thinner and more matte than in days gone by; it had an appealing crinkle to it, not unlike crushed chiffon. The combinations Hourani created—with the help of his longtime consultant, über-stylist Patti Wilson—emphasized drape. "I like the idea of showing what you can do with my clothes in a drapey way," he explained backstage. "They're very straight, always, but I like the idea that you can make them your own." Make no mistake, the pieces and the looks here are still very edgy; there's no de-Radding RAD. But this was a stronger show than last season's for the softening.
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Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Piazza Sempione Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax St. John Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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