Rag & Bone
February 10, 2011 New York
First there was their bold color sense. The show opened with a passage of icy whites and gray, but soon the designers were juxtaposing a vivid sea blue with rusty orange in color-blocked pieces like an apron dress, a toggle coat, and sporty knits. Then there's their habit of rehabbing the fairly conventional—a varsity jacket, a kilt, or a tweed poncho shot through with neon brights—into something genuinely covetable. Some saw shades of Balenciaga in the collection, but many others were won over by the confidence that has a pair of Brits best known for their denim just a few years ago now pairing Prince of Wales check with oversize tartan, or stripes with a delicate mask print.
Back, for a moment, to the subject of extreme cold. If there's one thing that could make the idea of another winter as harsh as this one a little less bleak, it's Neville and Wainwright's show-opening gray and burgundy cowhide and leather coat with the furry ivory sleeves. Sold.