Eye-grabbing prints have long been a Rachel Comey trademark, and this season she gave them plenty of attention. "The prints act like textures," the designer explained a few days before her show. "They have a depth." Ranging from sumptuous dahlia buds to computer-generated abstractions, the graphics were universally strong. They looked best mixed together on a simple shift dress or cut open on a skirt so you could see an accordion of sheer pleats underneath, a recurring trope—even a few pairs of pants flared out to reveal a dainty spray of pleats at the ankle. About those pants: Most were tight through the knee, cropped, and slightly flared. It looked better than it sounds, but the silhouette may be a hard sell.

One good thing about so much mid-calf? The better to see Comey's shoes. Her footwear, which has something of a cult status among its fans, evolves every season. For Fall, she introduced a stiletto and a funky pair of low cowboy boots with a curving heel. These, and the collection's dresses, will be sure sellers. Whether the Comey faithful will clamor for her oversize menswear and occasionally busy knits remains to be seen.