Reed Krakoff
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NEW YORK, February 16, 2011
By Nicole Phelps
In the year since he put on his first runway show, Reed Krakoff has opened flagships on Madison Avenue and in Tokyo and launched a perfume. That's a pretty fast-moving trajectory for a fledgling brand, but then Krakoff's is no regular start-up—he's got the Coach powerhouse behind him. The designer showed his Fall collection at his 34th Street showroom adjacent to Coach's headquarters, and from the looks of the clothes, he's been paying attention to some of the critiques leveled at his first two outings.Krakoff's strength is his outerwear. He offered several different takes on shearlings, from a parka to a cropped bomber to a zip-front vest. What stood them apart from all the others on the runways this week was their clipped, geometric precision. Krakoff doesn't do shaggy or unruly; an animal-spot calf-hair coat is as wild as things got. In fact, it was one of the show's few prints. Like other designers this season, Krakoff seemed to prefer the orderliness of monochromes. A nude double-face hooded coat with a matching merino thermal sweater and wool sateen trousers was the kind of look you could imagine doing well at his boutiques.
Customers might need more convincing when it comes to his new dresses. Krakoff worked a variation on a theme—short, belted at the hip, long-sleeved. In satin, at least, the results tended to be a bit droopy. For someone after a leggy look, but with a little more shape, the glazed-wool skirtsuit would be a better bet.
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Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Piazza Sempione Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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