February 15, 2011 New York
Krakoff's strength is his outerwear. He offered several different takes on shearlings, from a parka to a cropped bomber to a zip-front vest. What stood them apart from all the others on the runways this week was their clipped, geometric precision. Krakoff doesn't do shaggy or unruly; an animal-spot calf-hair coat is as wild as things got. In fact, it was one of the show's few prints. Like other designers this season, Krakoff seemed to prefer the orderliness of monochromes. A nude double-face hooded coat with a matching merino thermal sweater and wool sateen trousers was the kind of look you could imagine doing well at his boutiques.
Customers might need more convincing when it comes to his new dresses. Krakoff worked a variation on a theme—short, belted at the hip, long-sleeved. In satin, at least, the results tended to be a bit droopy. For someone after a leggy look, but with a little more shape, the glazed-wool skirtsuit would be a better bet.