Ralph Lauren
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NEW YORK, February 17, 2011
By Nicole Phelps
He's conquered the Boulevard Saint-Germain and Madison Avenue with sweeping new flagships, so where to next for Ralph Lauren? From the looks of his Fall runway, Shanghai and Beijing are on the horizon. (As it happens, the company bought its Southeast Asia business back from a licensee last year and has made no secret of its expansion plans throughout the continent.) Not unlike Oscar de la Renta yesterday, and Marc Jacobs last season at Louis Vuitton, Lauren looked to the Orient for inspiration—China specifically. The models wore jade and coral earrings, lacquered red heels that matched their lipstick, and bold middle parts, but in case you didn't get the references, the designer played a cover version of David Bowie's "China Girl." If that little detail was less than subtle, Lauren employed a lighter touch for the most part when it came to the clothes.He opened with a crisp white shirt tucked into a pair of wool trousers, and from there moved on to mannish tailoring and cocktail fare, cutting his clothes in glossy fabrics nearly as reflective as the lacquered runway—satin for a blouse, polished leather for a halter dress, Lurex-shot cashmere for a hobble skirt, and panne velvet for a quilted jacket. Chestnut brown shetland tweed coats with shearling lapels—shades of Shanghai's early-twentieth-century colonists—broke up all the black and white. The show was not without its costumey moments, chief among them a China red tuxedo jacket with multicolor dragon embroideries. It finished strong, though, with a series of elegant black evening dresses accented with a single brooch or beaded in an Art Deco style.
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Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Piazza Sempione Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax St. John Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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