Rochas
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PARIS, March 2, 2011
By Nicole Phelps
How do you define chic? That's the familiar but still essential question that drove Marco Zanini's Rochas collection. He started his research, he said, on Google, but he was soon dissatisfied with the results. Chic, it turns out, is very difficult to quantify. So he decided to do a collection that explores what the word means to him. On last season's runway, Zanini reconnected with his Swedish roots to occasionally cloying but mostly charming results. Today's outing was more in the vein of a refresher course on fashion classics, though not without the subtle wit that the designer has made a calling card at Rochas.If the navy coat wasn't pretending to be anything but an exceedingly well-cut navy coat in a supple cashmere, there were elements of surprise elsewhere, notably in a print from the legendary fabric manufacturer Bucol that Zanini used for a tailored blazer and full, slightly flaring trousers. Hidden amid the abstract flowers was an image of a pair of little kids. It sounds strange, but it was sweet, if you even noticed. The fitted sweater that was paired with those pants also had a hidden treasure; turn it inside out and there was an intarsia of cherries. Zanini loves those for-your-eyes-only details.
On the whole, though, this collection was a good deal more straightforward than the above might suggest. What could be simpler, after all, than the cadet blue pantsuit the designer opened with? Or the black silk three-quarter-sleeve to-the-knee shift dress? There were a few duds in the mix. A zip-front sleeveless dress with an A-line skirt wasn't helped any by the accompanying hand-knit kerchief. And the bra cups on a couple of bustier tops puckered where a smoother surface would've flattered more. But overall, Zanini has a pretty winning personal definition of chic: unpretentious and easy and—this is essential—laced with a sense of humor.
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