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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, March 2, 2011
By Meenal Mistry
Backstage before her show, Martine Sitbon explained that although her Fall collection was a collage of various references ("Some of the twenties, forties, sixties," she said), its overarching theme was trompe l'oeil. What is it about designers of both today and yesterday that makes them want to trick their clientele's eyes—and eventually bring them in on the stylish joke, then help them in perpetrating the same? Well, aside from being a potential conversation piece, at least for today, it's a way to capitalize on the multitude of fabric innovations at hand.Dresses are Sitbon's comfort zone, so most of her visual sleight of hand was channeled into those. She began with an almost waffle- textured woven jacquard that mixed it up seamlessly with a sort of homey-looking honeycomb mohair knit on body-hugging midi dresses—a silhouette that's spot-on for right now. These were interesting theoretically, if a bit clunky in execution. Some of the best pieces, however, came last. Sitbon referenced her own use of velvet dévoré with actual Art Nouveau motif cutouts. A couple had a beautiful stained glass effect. When it came to tailoring, the trickery was to take the stuffing out of evening jackets by flattening collars and pockets into insets. "It's like a cardigan," said Sitbon.
Curiously, when it came to the best dresses in this collection—the naughty-chic sheer bright ones striped with pintucked seams and dotted with little chiffon rosettes—the jig was up. They weren't simple in construction, but they didn't incorporate illusions, either. The only trick here? Perhaps luring a romantic interest with your sartorial siren call.
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Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Piazza Sempione Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax St. John Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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