Rue du Mail
March 01, 2011 Paris
Dresses are Sitbon's comfort zone, so most of her visual sleight of hand was channeled into those. She began with an almost waffle- textured woven jacquard that mixed it up seamlessly with a sort of homey-looking honeycomb mohair knit on body-hugging midi dresses—a silhouette that's spot-on for right now. These were interesting theoretically, if a bit clunky in execution. Some of the best pieces, however, came last. Sitbon referenced her own use of velvet dévoré with actual Art Nouveau motif cutouts. A couple had a beautiful stained glass effect. When it came to tailoring, the trickery was to take the stuffing out of evening jackets by flattening collars and pockets into insets. "It's like a cardigan," said Sitbon.
Curiously, when it came to the best dresses in this collection—the naughty-chic sheer bright ones striped with pintucked seams and dotted with little chiffon rosettes—the jig was up. They weren't simple in construction, but they didn't incorporate illusions, either. The only trick here? Perhaps luring a romantic interest with your sartorial siren call.