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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, February 18, 2011
By Meenal Mistry
Since their Fall collection was completed months ago (recall, they're on the Aussie fashion cycle), you can't really chalk up the giddily optimistic color in Sarah-Jane Clarke and Heidi Middleton's show to their recent cash infusion of almost $43 million from Australian department store chain Myer. Or can you? After all, they presciently named their previous collection Papa Sucre (translation: sugar daddy).Backstage after the show, Clarke described their Fall girl as "an elegant and ladylike urban warrior." That Xena of Avenue A is a perennial muse, but this time around, the designers took a lighter hand with their crafty embellishment—here in the quiet form of plaited silk and basket-woven belts. Instead, they passed the baton to all of the rich and electric shades of coral, magenta, and fuschia in fluttery solid silks and some ikats and tie-dyes.
These Fall warriors get around the globe, and it shows. "It's about different cultures, different textures, and mediums all coming together," said Middleton. There were enamel feather necklaces and motifs borrowed from African mud cloth. Sometimes the piece of cloth would be draped and belted over a pair of striped "wrap pants"—in exactly the manner that Middleton's been styling herself for a while, At other times, the wrap was worked into a garment and just looked like a separate piece. ("It's pre-styled for you," she exclaimed.) Echoing the graphic black-and-white effect was a silk feather print, which had a terrific textural look with none of the weight.
At times, the designers were in too global a state of mind. When the last look, a ruffled ikat skirt, flounced by, you had visions of cocktails by the beach. Not that we ever say no to a mai tai, but aside from a lovely suede dress, there was little here to remind you that this was a Fall collection.
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Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Piazza Sempione Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax St. John Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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