Stella McCartney
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PARIS, March 7, 2011
By Nicole Phelps
Stella McCartney pushed her signature masculine/feminine mix to extremes for Fall. "I wanted to take it to the next level," she said backstage. "You can get stuck in one mode." McCartney has staked out a territory that's all about sexy ease. Good for her for taking a leap today, but not every look landed on solid ground.The most recognizable element of the McCartney oeuvre, the sharply tailored pantsuit, got plenty of runway time, but it took on proportions that can only be likened to David Byrne in Stop Making Sense mode. Other pieces received the super-size treatment, as well: Shawl-collar winter coats came with sloping shoulders; a sporty bomber was elongated to practically the knees. Along similar lines, the gold laminated texturized knits and the Issey Miyake pleats had a sculptural quality, but whereas the former looked stiff, the latter felt softer, more womanly. And if you thought last season's citrus motif was loud, it had nothing on the gold Mylar print that was used for another big suit.
Representing the feminine side of the story were polka dots, embroidered onto ivory tulle T-shirts layered over a pair of trousers or peeking out beneath the hem of a smoking jacket. Alternatively, they were inset into curvy black dresses as stretchy, transparent point d'esprit. These, like the sleeveless seamed hourglass dresses with the peplums in front, more reliably captured the sexy McCartney spirit.
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Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Piazza Sempione Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax St. John Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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