Sportmax
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, February 26, 2011
By Nicole Phelps
There were a lot of ideas on the Sportmax runway. Despite the fact that the press notes said all of them were inspired by "the chilly northern Europe portrayed in Ingmar Bergman's films, the timeless design of Arne Jacobsen, moorlands, and wide open spaces," it wasn't always easy to see how they fit together. But in the end that's of little matter. This is MaxMara's workhorse brand, and based on the trends we've seen elsewhere this season, more than a few of the design team's propositions look destined to stick. Most obvious, given that this is first an outerwear company, are the multi-fur coats. In a similar vein, the duster that opened the show and the V-neck sweater paneled in fur in the front have brethren on other runways, and that will make them a popular buy with retailers. A bit more surprising here were the paillettes—the best iteration was the narrow, side-slit skirt worn with the ribbed peplum sweater. Again, though, given that fashion's two biggest names, Marc Jacobs and Miuccia Prada, have been using sequins, these pieces will be a good sales bet. On the other hand, some items—the patent leather peplums-cum-belts and a couple of backless blouses providing glimpses of neon harness bras—looked like plays for editorial love. The award for coolest outfit goes to the long quilted vest belted over a white button-down and burgundy ankle-baring trousers.
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Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Piazza Sempione Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax St. John Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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