Sophie Theallet
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 15, 2011
By Meenal Mistry
Since last season, Sophie Théallet has moved her studio out of her apartment and into the Garment District—a change, she said, that has given her a new perspective. "You're not in your little cocoon," she said a few days ago by phone. With today's show, Théallet certainly pushed into new territory, tightening up the typically blousy lines of her bohemian silhouettes and adding bona-fide tailoring in wool coats and slouchy, mannish suits.Théallet's muse was the bad girl masquerading as a lady, like the ne plus ultra of the stylish but ill-behaved, Bonnie Parker. Perhaps because these Franco-American girls—each with a black beret, heavy eye liner, and long black-ribbon choker—need to be on-the-go, the more body-skimming look still had a bit of give. The skinny pencil skirt that opened the show, paired with a chic plunging satin blouse Théallet called a "smoking shirt," allowed the model a cool strut, hands in pockets. On fluid printed and chiffon silk dresses, a skinny length of ribbon that emerged from a ruched panel was used to create an easy shape. Even the collection's strictest moments had something a bit undone. The thigh-baring slit on an evening gown looked as if it had been trussed up just moments before.
Delinquent inspiration aside, there was still a sweetness to the look. Just try being bad in those bright color-blocked sweaters with pointelle'd seams. But even as you understood Théallet's forward momentum, you imagine that her fans might long just a bit for last season's richly detailed, colorful vision. They'll do well to look to that chocolate satin coat-dress—the best of both worlds.
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