Threeasfour
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 11, 2011
By Maya Singer
It pretty much goes without saying that Threeasfour like to do things their own way. Designers Adi, Ange, and Gabi have an eccentric vision, and they've earned the right, as inveterate and innovative fashion experimenters, to stage their shows however they please. Tonight, though, one couldn't help feeling they were being willfully obscurantist, to the detriment of their fine Fall collection. The show at Saatchi & Saatchi was dimly lit—almost totally dark, in fact—and as the models walked the looks, they were only illuminated in bursts and snatches. It was almost impossible to see the clothes.What was easy enough to make out was this: Threeasfour had seized inspiration from music, in particular from stringed instruments, and the relationship between sound and form. The theme was explored in literal ways—accessories made from used violins, which will in fact be produced for sale—and via extrapolation. Notably, the collection featured a number of halterneck dresses fretted like harps, some embroidered in Spirograph-esque designs, others, in a silk-nylon blend, riffing on the construction of parachutes. The most inventive boasted ruffles of pleated horsehair snaking around their skirts like viscera.
Elsewhere, the looks felt familiar: curved, quilted coats and jackets, including an especially good collarless offering, done in panels of leather and neoprene; pieced leather pants and leggings; draped jumpsuits and dresses in a graphic wool suiting pinstripe. The latter looks were decidedly commercial—and in general, the collection was marked by its accessibility. In fact, it seemed fair to wonder whether the designers had decided to give their show so little light lest these clothes be seen for what they are: approachable.
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Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Farah Angsana Fashion East Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
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Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Piazza Sempione Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax St. John Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
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Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Wayne Wes Gordon Willow -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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