The new flagship, yet another CFDA nod, the GQ menswear award, the most exuberant end-of-show bow in fashion—Alexander Wang is clearly making the grade, and the business-minded approach behind his winning smile is a big factor. For his Fall T collection, the designer went for a vampy, slightly goth feel, updating but not reinventing his basics with longer hemlines and plush fabrics. This time around, the long slipdresses (the highest ticket item, maxing out at $350) came in a panne micro velvet that looked almost liquid when cut on the bias. And there were cool sweatshirt ponchos that evoked the opening number from his runway show—though these versions are much easier on the wallet. Wang also evolved his knits to keep up with the luxe merinos and angoras from ready-to-wear and debuted the line's very first blazer, sharp, sans lapels, and double-breasted.

Men's T is expanding, too, with denim pieces like pants with a thumb pocket that fit slightly slimmer around the ankles, and a fully lined bomber with leather sleeves. The outlook here remains upbeat.