Tim Hamilton
post a comment ›
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 10, 2011
By Matthew Schneier
After one season in Paris and another off the calendar, Tim Hamilton is again showing his namesake collection in New York. And in a way, New York provided the germ of the collection: The designer sublet a studio from artist Ross Bleckner and, after rifling through the painter's archive, proposed a collaboration. Bleckner's smeary, abstract almost-florals, which appeared on Hamilton's jackets, pants, second-skin turtlenecks, and, for his women's collection, dresses and separates, unified the whole. Replicating Bleckner's vivid colors also gave Hamilton a chance to indulge his taste for far-flung production and fabric play. (He found a Japanese factory that was up to the task.)Proportion usually gets goosed chez Hamilton, too. In both collections, jackets and shirts were lengthened to slightly creepy, attenuated effect, layered short-over-long. Hand-knit sweaters got long sleeves but cropped bodies. For men, shell-like outerwear in rubberized vinyl and neoprene looked protective, futuristic, and a little mutant. Uniforms and military trappings tend to loom large in Hamilton's imagination, and he mentioned Aldous Huxley's dystopian fantasies as a point of reference. There was a bellicose quality overall, only heightened by the glowering, street-tough models and their scowling doppelgängers, the boys in longtime collaborator Collier Schorr's photographs, printed on cotton T-shirts (part of Hamilton's secondary Redux range). With all that stewing, the Bleckner prints lent a kind of cooling levity; there was also some warm-blooded heat from the hints of shearling lining or the occasional blast of vermilion red. Some more of that wouldn't hurt. Brave New World it may be—but baby, it's cold out there!
/
/
/
COMMENTS
(0) ADD YOURSwelcome !
logout
you must be logged in to leave a comment sign in | join now
see all designers ›
Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
#
|
A
|
B
|
C
|
D
|
E
|
F
|
G
|
H
|
I
|
J
|
K
|
L
|
M
|
N
|
O
|
P
|
R
|
S
|
T
|
U
|
V
|
W
|
Y
|
Z
|
-
#
3.1 Phillip Lim -
A
-
B
-
C
-
D
-
E
Edun Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio de la Morena Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
F
Farah Angsana Fashion East Felder Felder Felipe Oliveira Baptista Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
G
Gabriele Colangelo Gap Gareth Pugh Gary Graham Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson G-Star Gucci -
H
Haider Ackermann Hakaan Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria Holly Fulton House of Holland -
I
Iceberg Imitation of Christ Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
J
-
K
Karen Walker Kelly Wearstler Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz Kinder Aggugini -
L
L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Gray Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luisa Beccaria Lyn Devon -
M
-
N
Naeem Khan NAHM Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Neil Barrett Nicholas K Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nicole Farhi Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
O
Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Osman -
P
Paul & Joe Paul Smith Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Piazza Sempione Ports 1961 PPQ Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
R
-
S
Sacai Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sass & Bide Sharon Wauchob Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax St. John Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Steven Alan Suno -
T
-
U
Undercover United Bamboo -
V
Valentino Vanessa Bruno Vena Cava Vera Wang Véronique Leroy Versace Versus Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
W
Wayne Wes Gordon Willow -
Y
Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
Z
Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
ERROR:
