February 25, 2011 Milan
His first step in that direction: Work within a well-defined palette—just black, white, red, and camel. The second: Err on the side of minimal. That was his word, not ours. Yes, there was a cool graphic quality to a fitted red moleskin jacket and a pair of trousers, one leg of which was black, the other white. The lines were clean and spare, but quiet it was not. Bold is more like it. The same goes for a camel cocoon coat edged in leather. It was inspired by something worn by Faye Dunaway's character in 1968's The Thomas Crown Affair, but it had none of the retro associations of some other sixties-influenced collections this week in Milan. Outerwear is a natural for this house, but Vukmirovic made a persuasive argument for eveningwear with a long silk dress decorated with vertical and horizontal bands of leather fringe. That kind of range will come in handy when Trussardi opens its projected New York store. The rejuvenated label is currently shopping for real estate in the city.