Milan Vukmirovic celebrated Trussardi's 100th birthday at Pitti Uomo last month by exploring the brand's heritage, cutting every single piece in the 36-look collection in leather. His approach to the label's women's line this season isn't quite that extreme, although there are a good number of cool pieces in that material, the kind his customers could get a lot of mileage out of. For instance: a simple cap-sleeve A-line dress with a buckle at the waist to give it a flattering shape, stretchy second-skin leggings in chestnut brown, and sexy sueded black flares. You can't exactly call them basics; the skins are too precious and the craftsmanship too fine. But Vukmirovic professed a newfound interest in designing pieces that last, rather than designing trendy.

His first step in that direction: Work within a well-defined palette—just black, white, red, and camel. The second: Err on the side of minimal. That was his word, not ours. Yes, there was a cool graphic quality to a fitted red moleskin jacket and a pair of trousers, one leg of which was black, the other white. The lines were clean and spare, but quiet it was not. Bold is more like it. The same goes for a camel cocoon coat edged in leather. It was inspired by something worn by Faye Dunaway's character in 1968's The Thomas Crown Affair, but it had none of the retro associations of some other sixties-influenced collections this week in Milan. Outerwear is a natural for this house, but Vukmirovic made a persuasive argument for eveningwear with a long silk dress decorated with vertical and horizontal bands of leather fringe. That kind of range will come in handy when Trussardi opens its projected New York store. The rejuvenated label is currently shopping for real estate in the city.